Homemade Ketchup

David Leite

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  10 pounds very ripe red tomatoes, preferably beefsteak, cored and roughly chopped
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  4 garlic cloves, chopped
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  1 large onion, chopped
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  3/4 cup white vinegar, (for a mild taste) or cider vinegar (for a fruity tang)
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  1 tablespoon black peppercorns
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  1 heaping teaspoon allspice berries
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  1 cinnamon stick
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  8 whole cloves
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  1/4 teaspoon cayenne
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  1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
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  2 1/2 tablespoons salt
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  6 tablespoons granulated sugar, plus more to taste

1. In a large, heavy-bottomed, and nonreactive pot (ensure it’s at least 8 quarts in size to accommodate the volume of tomatoes and prevent spills during vigorous boiling), place all the cored and roughly chopped tomatoes. Cover the pot with a lid and bring the contents to a boil over high heat. Cook for 5 to 10 minutes, stirring frequently (about once a minute), until the tomato chunks have softened considerably and released a significant amount of their juice, forming a bubbling mixture. This initial cooking helps to break down the tomatoes and prepare them for straining.
2. Working in manageable batches, carefully transfer the hot tomato chunks and their juice into a large strainer. Position this strainer over a separate 3- or 4-quart saucepan to collect the liquid. Using the back of a sturdy wooden spoon or a ladle, gently but firmly press and stir the tomatoes in the strainer. The objective is to extract all the clear, flavorful tomato liquid into the saucepan below, while ensuring that the solid tomato pulp remains in the strainer. You should yield approximately 2 quarts of liquid. Reserve the thicker tomato pulp that remains in the strainer; this will be processed later.
3. To the strained tomato liquid in the saucepan, add the chopped garlic, onion, your chosen vinegar (white vinegar for a milder flavor or cider vinegar for a more robust, fruity tang), black peppercorns, allspice berries, cinnamon stick, whole cloves, cayenne pepper, and ground ginger, along with the salt. Bring this mixture to a simmer over moderately high heat. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally to prevent scorching, until the liquid has dramatically reduced, becoming thick, deeply colored, and syrupy. Its volume should decrease to roughly 2 cups. This reduction is a critical step for flavor concentration and consistency. The cooking time for this stage can vary significantly, ranging from half an hour to up to 2, or even 4 hours, depending on factors such as the water content of your tomatoes and the width of your saucepan (a wider pan allows for faster evaporation).

   ☞ TESTER TIP: The water content varies greatly between different tomato varieties. Beefsteak tomatoes, for instance, are often meatier and pulpier, requiring a longer reduction period, while juicier Roma tomatoes might reduce more quickly. Do not be discouraged by longer cooking times; focus on achieving the desired thick, syrupy consistency, as this indicates optimal flavor development.

4. Concurrently, or once the liquid is reducing, transfer the reserved tomato pulp to a food mill equipped with the finest screen available. Process the pulp thoroughly through the mill to remove all remaining seeds and skins. This action will yield a smooth, consistent tomato base. If you do not have a food mill, utilize a potato ricer for a similar effect, or employ Lori Widmeyer’s blanching and peeling method (described above) to prepare the pulp. After processing, you should have approximately 1 quart of finely strained tomato pulp. Transfer this smooth pulp back to your original large pot. Discard any remaining tomato solids that were separated by the food mill or ricer.
5. Once the thick, syrupy, and reduced tomato liquid is ready, carefully strain it into the pot containing your processed tomato pulp. Press down firmly on any remaining solids in the strainer to ensure all the concentrated, flavorful liquid is extracted. Stir in the granulated sugar thoroughly. Gently simmer the combined mixture over medium-low to low heat, stirring frequently to prevent the ketchup from sticking to the bottom of the pot. Continue cooking until the ketchup has reduced by approximately one-third of its volume, typically taking 15 to 20 minutes. Throughout this final simmering, taste the ketchup periodically and add more sugar if you prefer a sweeter profile. At the conclusion, you should have around 4 cups of rich, thick homemade ketchup. If the consistency is still a bit runny for your liking, continue to simmer the mixture over low heat, stirring constantly, until it reaches your desired thickness. For an exceptionally smooth, commercial-style texture, you may purée the finished ketchup in a blender or food processor.
6. Allow the freshly made ketchup to cool completely to room temperature. Once cooled, transfer the ketchup into clean, sterilized glass jars or other airtight containers with tight-fitting lids. Store your homemade ketchup in the refrigerator, where it will maintain its freshness and excellent flavor for up to several weeks. For extended preservation, consider researching and following proper canning guidelines for acidic foods.

Melissa Maedgen’s Experience: A Ketchup Convert

Melissa Maedgen, who readily admits she’s “not a big fan of regular ketchup,” found this homemade recipe so compelling that it earned our coveted Testers’ Choice recognition. She conducted a side-by-side taste test with her husband, a true ketchup aficionado, using onion rings as their vehicle of choice. Both preferred the homemade version over commercial Heinz. Melissa noted the store-bought ketchup was “noticeably sweeter,” while her homemade creation offered a “brighter in flavor and a bit saltier” profile. The spices were perfectly balanced, present enough to enhance the flavor without being individually overpowering. In her words, it was “delicious, even to a ketchup-hater like me.”

Melissa offered practical advice for fellow cooks: she suggested a slight reduction in salt to match personal preferences. She also emphasized the critical importance of using a truly large pot (at least 8 quarts) for the initial tomato cooking. Despite her food mill’s finest screen not removing every single seed, she found the minute presence of seeds entirely acceptable and not a detraction. Furthermore, she opted against a final purée in a blender, finding the ketchup’s texture “smooth enough” and “perfectly acceptable” as it was.

Sofia Reino’s Take: Family Collaboration and Smart Hacks

Sofia Reino, another tester with a personal dislike for ketchup, embarked on this recipe with invaluable assistance from her older daughter, a fervent ketchup lover. Her daughter diligently served as the primary taste-tester, ensuring the homemade version aligned as closely as possible with their usual organic Heinz ketchup. Sofia found the overall cooking process to be “pretty easy,” despite her personal taste preferences.

Using homegrown beefsteak tomatoes, which are naturally denser, Sofia observed that reducing the liquid to a syrupy consistency took approximately an hour but didn’t become as thick as desired. This led to a clever improvisation: her daughter suggested adding a touch of cornstarch, which successfully achieved the desired thickness. Sofia also found it necessary to add an additional three tablespoons of sugar to match the sweetness profile her family preferred. According to her daughter, the final result was very similar to Heinz ketchup, albeit “just a bit darker.” While Sofia pondered whether the effort was “worth the trouble” for someone who doesn’t typically enjoy ketchup, she ultimately concluded she would make it again. Her primary motivation: the peace of mind that comes from knowing exactly what ingredients are in her family’s food, a significant advantage over store-bought alternatives.

Adrienne Lee’s Review: Rewarding Effort

Adrienne Lee candidly acknowledged that this homemade ketchup recipe demands “tremendous” effort, particularly in the initial stages of cutting tomatoes and managing several pots and strainers. However, she unequivocally declared the ketchup “delicious,” confirming that the superb end result fully justifies the extensive preparation. Adrienne successfully achieved a desirable texture by extending the cooking time slightly beyond the recommended duration, emphasizing the need for vigilant stirring to prevent the ketchup from burning.

Leveraging her own food mill, Adrienne confirmed its utility in streamlining the straining process. She noted that the tomato liquid took a considerable amount of time to reach a truly syrupy consistency, and the final volume after reduction was somewhat less than anticipated. To enhance both the flavor and body, Adrienne intelligently incorporated some of the puréed tomato pulp back into the mixture during the simmering phase. This thoughtful adjustment not only improved the overall texture but also intensified the rich tomato flavor, showcasing how experienced cooks can adapt and refine a recipe to their liking.