Pane Francese: The Ultimate Italian Baguette

Recipe by David Leite

For the Starter (Biga)

A robust biga is the cornerstone of this recipe, providing deep flavor and an excellent crumb structure. Begin preparing this 12-15 hours before you plan to mix the main dough.

• 2 cups plus 2 tablespoons (approx. 270g) all-purpose flour
• Pinch instant yeast (just a tiny amount, about 1/16 to 1/8 teaspoon)
• 1 1/4 cups (approx. 295ml) warm water, ideally at about 60°F (15°C)

For the Pane Francese Dough

The combination of cold milk and generous olive oil is what gives this bread its signature creamy texture and rich flavor profile.

• 3 1/2 cups plus 1 tablespoon (approx. 430g) all-purpose flour, plus additional for dusting and working the dough
• 1 tablespoon plus 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt (ensure it’s fine for even distribution)
• 1/4 teaspoon instant yeast
• 3/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons (approx. 210ml) cold whole milk (cold helps control fermentation)
• 1/4 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons (approx. 85ml) extra-virgin olive oil (choose a good quality oil for best flavor)

For the Dusting Mixture

This simple mixture is crucial for preventing sticking during proofing and for contributing to the rustic, appealing crust.

• 1 tablespoon fine semolina flour (adds texture and helps prevent sticking)
• 5 tablespoons all-purpose flour

Phase 1: Crafting the Starter (Biga)

1. Prepare the Flour: Begin by adding the specified amount of all-purpose flour into a medium-sized storage container. A container with a lid is highly recommended for maintaining proper humidity and preventing the starter from drying out during its long fermentation.
2. Activate the Yeast: In a separate 2-cup measuring cup, pour in the warm water. It’s important for the water to be around 60°F (15°C) – not too hot to kill the yeast, nor too cold to inhibit its activity. Sprinkle the tiny pinch of instant yeast over the water, then stir gently until the yeast is fully dissolved and thoroughly combined.
3. Combine and Ferment: Pour the yeast-water mixture directly over the flour in the container. Using your clean fingers, thoroughly mix the ingredients. Press the mixture into the sides, bottom, and corners of the container to ensure every bit of flour is hydrated and incorporated. Once fully combined and no dry pockets of flour remain, cover the container tightly with its lid or plastic wrap. Allow it to rest at room temperature for an extended period of 12 to 15 hours. The starter will typically reach its peak activity and optimal flavor development around the 13-hour mark, appearing bubbly and slightly domed, indicating it’s perfectly ready for the main dough preparation.

Phase 2: Preparing and Developing the Pane Francese Dough

This phase involves bringing together the starter and new ingredients, followed by crucial resting and folding periods to build strength and flavor.

4. Dry Ingredients Preparation: In a separate medium bowl, combine the additional all-purpose flour for the main dough, the fine sea salt, and the second measure of instant yeast. Stir these dry ingredients together thoroughly with a whisk or spoon to ensure even distribution. This will prevent pockets of salt or yeast in the final dough.
5. Integrate Starter and Liquids: Retrieve your prepared biga (starter). Slowly pour approximately one-third of the cold whole milk around the sides of the starter container. This strategic pour helps to loosen the sticky biga from the container walls, making it much easier to transfer. Gently scrape the loosened starter and milk into an extra-large mixing bowl. Add the remaining cold milk and the extra-virgin olive oil to this bowl. Using a sturdy wooden spoon, or even your hands, carefully break up the biga to ensure it disperses evenly throughout the liquid mixture.
6. Combine Wet and Dry Mixtures: Gradually add the dry flour mixture from step 4 into the liquid and starter mixture in the extra-large bowl. Begin mixing with a spoon, but be sure to hold back about one-sixth of the dry flour mixture, reserving it along one edge of the bowl. Continue mixing with the spoon until the majority of the flour mixture has been incorporated and the dough appears sticky and shaggy. At this point, for better control as the dough begins to stiffen, it’s highly recommended to switch to a plastic bowl scraper and/or your hands to finish the initial incorporation of ingredients.
7. Kneading and Gluten Development: Now, you have a crucial decision regarding kneading. You can either knead the dough using your familiar method, incorporating the last one-sixth of the reserved flour mixture gradually as your hands or work surface become sticky. Continue kneading until the dough becomes stiff and difficult to work with, signaling sufficient gluten development. Alternatively, you can employ the author’s preferred “rolling and tucking” method, which is particularly effective for developing gluten in high-hydration doughs like this one. This technique is detailed comprehensively in the “Baker’s Notes and Expert Tips” section below. Whichever method you choose, ensure the dough is well-worked and cohesive.
8. First Dough Rest: Once the dough is adequately worked and cohesive, use cupped hands to tuck the sides of the dough underneath itself, shaping it into a neat, round ball. Place the dough, seam-side down, into a clean bowl. Cover the bowl with a clean kitchen towel and allow it to rest at room temperature for 1 hour. This initial rest period allows the gluten to relax after kneading and jumpstarts the fermentation process.
9. First Stretch and Fold Preparation: Lightly dust your work surface, your hands, and a 9-by-13-inch (23-by-33-centimeter) baking pan with all-purpose flour. Using a plastic bowl scraper, carefully release the dough from its bowl and place it, seam-side down, onto your lightly floured work surface. Gently stretch the dough from its center outwards to form a rough rectangular shape, approximately 10 by 12 inches (25 by 30 centimeters). Be gentle to avoid tearing the nascent gluten structure.
10. First Stretch and Fold Execution: Fold the dough in thirds: bring the top section down over the middle, and then the bottom section up over that, much like folding a letter to put into an envelope. This creates three distinct layers, reinforcing the dough’s structure. Rotate the dough 90 degrees and repeat the folding process from left to right, creating nine layers. Again, use cupped hands to tuck the sides of the dough under itself, creating a tighter, more cohesive ball. Place this folded dough, seam-side down, into the floured baking pan. Cover the pan securely with the kitchen towel or plastic wrap, stretched taut to prevent a skin from forming, and let it rest for another 1 hour at room temperature. This completes your first “stretch and fold” cycle, a vital step for building dough strength, elasticity, and an open crumb.
11. Second Stretch and Fold: For the second and final stretch and fold, repeat the entire process described in steps 9 and 10 exactly. Once completed, return the dough to the baking pan, cover it securely with the towel or plastic wrap, and allow it to rest for a final 1 hour at room temperature. This repeated folding is crucial for developing the robust gluten network needed for Pane Francese’s characteristic texture and structure.

Phase 3: Shaping, Cold Proofing, and Baking the Loaves

The final stages bring together shaping, a critical cold fermentation for flavor, and a high-heat bake with steam for an unparalleled crust.

13. Prepare Dusting Mixture: In a small, dry bowl, thoroughly mix together the fine semolina flour and the five tablespoons of all-purpose flour. This specific mixture will be used exclusively for dusting surfaces that come into direct contact with the dough to prevent sticking, particularly during the proofing and transfer stages. It should not be incorporated into the dough itself during mixing or kneading, as its purpose is purely external.
14. Prepare Proofing Surface (Couche): Line a half sheet pan or a standard baking sheet with a clean kitchen towel. Generously dust this towel with the prepared semolina and all-purpose flour mixture. The slightly coarser semolina is particularly effective at creating a barrier that prevents the delicate dough from adhering to the towel, which is essential for easy transfer.
15. Shape the Loaves: Lightly dust your work surface and your hands with plain all-purpose flour. Carefully turn the proofed dough onto the work surface, allowing it to gently spread out. Gently stretch it into a rectangle approximately 9 by 7 inches (23 by 18 centimeters). Using a bench scraper, or a sharp knife, divide the dough into four equal portions. Each portion should measure roughly 2 1/4 by 7 inches (5.5 by 18 centimeters). Gently stretch each individual portion and then roll or shape it into a rectangle of about 2 by 12 inches (5 by 30 centimeters), carefully forming them into baguette-like logs.
16. Cold Fermentation (Overnight Proof): Transfer the shaped loaves to the prepared, generously floured towel-lined pan. Position them across the width of the pan, rather than lengthwise, to allow for proper expansion during proofing without crowding. Lightly dust the tops and sides of the loaves with the dusting mixture. Carefully fold any excess length of the kitchen towel to create supportive “walls” between and around each loaf. These walls help the loaves maintain their shape as they slowly proof. If necessary, use another clean kitchen towel to cover the entire pan. Allow the loaves to rest at room temperature for 30 minutes to relax before the cold stage, then transfer the pan to the refrigerator for a crucial cold fermentation period of 12 to 16 hours. This slow, cold proof is fundamental for developing deep flavor and achieving the signature open crumb and exceptional crust.
17. Preheat Oven and Skillet: Approximately one hour before you plan to bake (after the cold fermentation is complete), slide a cast-iron skillet or a similar heavy, oven-safe pan onto the bottom floor of your oven. This skillet will be used to generate steam. Preheat your oven to a blistering 500°F (260°C). Allow ample time for the oven and baking surface (pizza stone or steel) to reach this high temperature evenly.
18. Prepare for Baking: When you are ready to bake, lightly dust your baking peel with plain all-purpose flour. Using the kitchen towel as a sling, gently lift and flip the cold loaves from the proofing pan onto a transfer peel, ensuring they land seam-side down. Then, carefully slide them from the transfer peel onto the floured baking peel, maintaining the seam-side-down orientation. Using a very sharp knife or a baker’s lame, make a few shallow, diagonal slashes (known as “scoring”) about a couple of inches long on the top surface of each loaf. This scoring allows for controlled expansion during baking, promotes a beautiful “ear” on the crust, and prevents uncontrolled tearing.
19. Bake with Steam: Working swiftly and with extreme caution, wearing heavy-duty oven mitts, carefully transfer the scored loaves from the baking peel directly onto your preheated pizza stone or baking surface in the hot oven. Quickly pull the hot cast-iron skillet partway out of the oven, add about 3 cups of ice cubes into it (this will instantly generate a powerful burst of steam), then immediately slide the skillet back in and quickly close the oven door to trap the steam. Reduce the oven temperature to 460°F (240°C). Bake the bread for approximately 25 minutes, or until the surface achieves a deep, golden brown color and the crust is wonderfully crisp. Remember to switch the positions of the loaves about two-thirds of the way through the baking time to ensure even browning across all loaves.
20. Cooling and Final Check: Using the baking peel, carefully transfer the hot, baked loaves to a wire cooling rack. To accurately check for doneness, tap the bottom of each loaf; it should produce a hollow sound, indicating it’s fully baked through. If it doesn’t sound hollow, return the bread to the baking stone and bake for an additional 5 minutes.
21. Patience is Key for Perfection: Allow the bread to cool completely before slicing and enjoying. This is a critical step that often gets overlooked. Cooling allows the internal crumb structure to set properly and the flavors to fully develop. Ideally, let it cool for at least 4 hours, but for optimal flavor, texture, and sliceability, 8 to 24 hours of cooling is highly preferred.

The “Rolling and Tucking” Kneading Method Explained

This unique kneading technique, favored by the recipe’s author Zachary Golper, is an excellent method for developing strong gluten in high-hydration doughs without the need for aggressive, traditional kneading. It’s about coaxing the dough into strength rather than forcing it.

1. Prepare Your Surface: You can perform this technique either directly in a large mixing bowl or by turning the dough onto a lightly floured work surface. Gently coax the dough into a somewhat rectangular shape with one of its shorter ends facing you.
2. The First Roll: Slide your fingers or a dough scraper approximately 3 inches (8 centimeters) under the far end of the dough. Gently lift this section and roll it towards you, allowing it to fold neatly onto the rest of the dough. As you complete the fold, push down lightly with the side of your hand, effectively “tucking” the folded-over end into the main mass of the dough. This action starts to build internal tension.
3. Repeat and Rotate: Repeat this rolling and tucking action several times along the length of the dough until the entire mass is rolled up. With the final roll, give a slight push down to ensure the dough rests seam-side down. Then, rotate the dough 90 degrees so that the short side is once again facing you.
4. Flip and Reshape: Flip the dough over so it’s seam-side up. Gently press on the seam with the palm of your hand or the flat side of a scraper to reshape it into a roughly rectangular form. If the dough feels quite sticky at this point, you can add a small amount of the reserved all-purpose flour to your hands or work surface as needed. After one full cycle of rolling and tucking, you should observe 3 or 4 distinct rolls along the length of the dough. This entire sequence constitutes one complete “roll and tuck.”
5. Patience and Observation: When you first start, the dough might be quite sticky and seem uncooperative. Have patience; it will gradually strengthen and become much more manageable with each subsequent roll and tuck. As the gluten develops, you’ll notice the dough starting to resist further stretching and rolling. The general rule of thumb is to stop when the dough becomes noticeably difficult to fold and starts to show signs of tearing. This usually occurs after about 10 complete “roll and tuck” cycles. This method builds impressive dough strength and elasticity, which are vital for achieving Pane Francese’s incredible open and airy crumb.

The Indispensable Role of Cold Fermentation (Retarding)

The extended cold fermentation – or retarding – of the dough in the refrigerator is a non-negotiable step for achieving truly exceptional Pane Francese. This process significantly slows down the yeast activity, allowing beneficial bacteria within the dough to work longer and produce more complex organic acids. This results in a bread with a much deeper, more nuanced flavor profile that cannot be achieved with a rapid proof. Furthermore, cold fermentation contributes to a more open, irregular crumb structure, better extensibility of the dough, and ultimately, a superior crust that becomes wonderfully crispy and beautifully blistered during baking. Do not skip this crucial step; it’s the secret to an artisanal loaf.

Achieving the Perfect Crust with Steam

The introduction of steam at the beginning of the baking process is absolutely essential for developing Pane Francese’s characteristic thin, crackly, and golden crust. When you add ice cubes to the preheated cast-iron skillet in the hot oven, it instantly creates a humid environment. This steam prevents the crust from forming too quickly, allowing the dough to expand fully (known as “oven spring”) before it dries out. This extended expansion time results in a lighter, airier interior and a stunning, blistered exterior with a satisfying crunch. Without sufficient steam, the crust would set too early, leading to a denser crumb and a less appealing, thicker crust.

Adapted From

This exceptional Pane Francese recipe is skillfully adapted from the acclaimed cookbook Bien Cuit: The Art of Bread by Zachary Golper. It showcases his profound understanding of bread making and offers invaluable insights into creating artisanal loaves with distinctive character and flavor at home.

BuyBien CuitOn Amazon

Serving Size: 1 portion (based on 40 servings per recipe)

Calories: 103 kcal

Carbohydrates: 19 g

Protein: 3 g

Fat: 2 g

Saturated Fat: 1 g

Monounsaturated Fat: 1 g

Cholesterol: 1 mg

Sodium: 177 mg

Fiber: 1 g

Sugar: 1 g